References Craftsman Estimator Costbook, complete series year Latest prices found on Home Depot and other vendor Web sites. Literature review of DIY Web sites. How much does it cost to install electric radiant ceiling heating in your city? Enter your zip code to get estimates. Get Estimates. Cost by city Moderate Upgrade. And no streaked walls, drafts, or burning dust on hot pipes or registers.
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I hate forced heat which I feel is very inefficient, dirty, and noisy. If you are sitting under a vent when the heat comes on, you know what I mean. We have this type of heat in another home we have and I am always cold there. Forced air heating is a very uneven heat in my opinion vs. Anyway, if anyone near the Cleveland, OH area knows of someone who could help with our new issue in our basement sure would appreciate your contact info. Good luck to everyone and stay warm!! Our home was built in and has radiant heat in the ceiling.
It's an older system and I'll describe what I learned about it. There is a 3-wire cable for each room that runs 2 hot wires and an unshielded ground from the breaker box to each room for v. One wire is connected to the thermostat.
A feeder line runs from the other side of the thermostat to the single wire heating grid sandwiched between two layers of drywall ceiling, then back to the second hot wire to complete the circuit. It uses a Switch Action Open thermostat. There is also a Switch Action Closed thermostat and of course I got the wrong one the first time.
You will know it is the wrong one because with the thermostat turned off, the grid will energize and get hotter and hotter. Reversing the wires doesn't do anything. If you turn the thermostat above the current room temperature, the system will de-energize I have a room that won't heat, so I began testing a good room and comparing the results with the bad room. At the thermostat, with power to the system and the thermostat turned off, you should have v across the thermostat.
When you turn the thermostat up to energize the system, voltage should drop to zero. My bad room had only v so I pulled the thermostat out, removed the leads and tested for voltage and continuity. The lines leading to and from the grid had no continuity, so I began to suspect a broken wire somewhere in the grid.
Voltage from each hot wire to one of the grid leads showed 85v, same as my good room. However, there was no voltage on the other grid lead.
Sure enough, the wire was cut from above and you couldn't see the break from below. I turned the breaker off and ran a jumper wire across the break and tested the grid leads again Now off to the hardware store for a section of 16ga solid core wire and splice out the broken wire.
Still have continuity and 30 minutes later the room is nice and warm. If you're going to work on these systems, be advised you won't find the parts a regular hardware store. I got the Line Voltage Thermostat at Grainger for about the same price as available online. I found the wire at an Ace Hardware store.
If you're going to work on your system, be careful, you're playing with v. Turn the breaker off before fooling with anything! Our house was built in It has the ceiling tape heat in every room. In the bedrooms we have dark streaks on the ceiling where the tape is.
It is darkest where the ceiling and wall meet. It has been like this for several years. Should we be concerned? We are remodeling our home and would like to update the thermostats. Can anyone suggest a thermostat that works with the in ceiling closed loop radiant heat? I am unsure how to even begin figuring out what kind of system I have, I just know we love the heat and want to keep it. Also We need to repair one wire that the electrician cut into.
Is that a problem to repair and secure back into the ceiling? First you need to determine what KIND of thermostat you have. Google the old one. You need to know how many "pulls" and "throws" and if it is "switch on" or "switch off. I did the work myself, because this is a very simple circuit.
If you use an electrician, let him know you've done the research so you don't get screwed on the replacement switch. Some will try to convince you that the old switches are impossible expensive to find. They are NOT hard to find. Question for the people smarter than me: I'm repairing a corner of the ceiling with radiant heat installed.
Mine is wire embedded in the drywall, NOT between two layers. I managed to remove the drywall from around the wires, so they are intact, but now I have a loop of wire that I'm not going to be able to re-embed. I don't want to just lay it up on top of the patch I put in attic is above. From some work I've done on another area, it seems that each panel is powered individually from the rooms thermostat. Would it by fine to just clip this wire, and lose heat to the one panel?
Do I need to do anything with the wire if I do clip it, beside insulating the end? Thanks to haulbrookdf for your comment as well. I need to replace my thermostats, as they don't really seem to shut off the heat. If the breaker's on, the heats on, even if the thermostat is turned all the way down. When i gutted the bathroom i discovered radiant heat in the ceiling. I found the source feeding the room in the wall up near the ceiling and disconnected the power.
Our hydro bills have been through the roof compared to other houses in my area. I snipped the wires in two and maretted the ends. To my surprise there was power in all the wires even after i cut them. I would have thought that there would only be one source for each room. Any one run into that before.
Just wanted to add an important warning to this post. Be cautious around the Thermalux ceiling heat system. These panels contain asbestos and should only be removed by proper asbestos remediation contractors. Have spent quite a bit of time reading and discovered the popular mechanics ad from starting it has asbestos in it but have not see the hazard mentioned anywhere. We have radiant heat in our ceiings. We would like to put a ceiling can in our livingroom. Is there anything we can use to see for sure where it is so we could make a hold for the box?
We have electric radiant heat in our ceilings in a ranch house built in the late s by my uncle. It works fabulously. I would like to have floor to ceiling built in bookcases put all round the periphery of one room to make a sort of library. My cabinet contractor is concerned that this might "burn out" the heating system.
Is this actually a concern? Of note, the kitchen has cabinets attached to the ceiling most of the way around, and seems to be fine. If I can't go all the way up with the bookcases, then how much room must I leave between their tops and the ceiling?
I have a new home and it has radiant heat in ceiling that goes back to the 's and has black pipe as coils. The ceiling had to be replaced and it originally had a cement board on it. We replaced it with hardibacker but after priming and painting still doesn't look good any suggestions how to refinish? I am currently having my kitchen renovated in my home.
To replace the old ceiling heat I had the Ditra floor heating system installed under my new tiles. I have had people swear by this system, winter will tell. Check into a company out of Wareham, MA. The name is Calorique. I believe the floor and ceiling heat is Perfectly warm and their deicing is Perfectly clear. I have all their products in my home and LOVE them.
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